If My Mac Is Plugged Into Router, Why Is It Searching For Wifi/has Bad Internet Connection9/25/2019
The router is not the problem in my case, but it is my computer. I know this because i recently had a friend over and her Mac was 1 foot away from my PC and she had full bars as well. I have no other options other than to ask the almighty internet. Mar 24, 2016 - Dropped connections, an ever-spinning update wheel, slow-loading. Router technology has come a long way in recent years. Some routers, like the Apple Airport Extreme, have a “dual band” mode, which. (AES) that's only available on the fastest wireless internet networks (802.11n and 802.11ac).
Before Posting: Please use the search function to look for keywords related to what you want to ask before posting since most common issues have been answered. If you can't find what you're looking for with the search function please feel free to post a new question after reading the Post Flair: Please flair your posts as Solved, Unsolved, or simply Advice. Trusted User Flair: has been added as a means of verification that a user has a substantial knowledge of networking. To obtain trusted flair for your account please of with the following info;.
Permalink to a comment you made in the last 6 months, helping someone in the community. Your highest level of industry certification, or highest IT related job title held in the last 5 years. Proof of at least 6 month's history of posting in this subreddit Guides There have been some excellent guides written in this sub, and we're always looking for more!. has created a suggestion post regarding information. Friends of;. My setup is a Motorola Surfboard SBG6580 modem, connected to a Netgear N600 (WNDR3400) router.
I am running a Windows 10 PC that connects to the router via ethernet cable. When plugged into the router and running speedtest.net I have been getting between 60 and 80 Mbps. When I plug into the modem instead of the router Speedtest.net gives me a result of 170Mbps. I have tried resetting the router, the modem, and the PC. I haven't been able to find anything on this specific problem on google or searching here. I just cannot for the life of me figure out what is causing a loss of about 100Mbps from the modem to the router. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I assume the cable from your PC is the same one you used to test modem only speeds? So start by replacing the cable between the router and modem. Beyond it being a bad cable your N600 router may be the problem. Things like QoS, SPI firewall, firewall rules, mac filtering, vpn, or other software features that require CPU time could be restricting the network performance. Check out your settings, disable anything extra, and try watching the CPU usage on it. Also check if there are any updates for the N600. Maybe there is a bug fix for this kind of thing.
![]()
If you don't have it, look into third-party firmware for the N600 like Tomato or DD-WRT. It looks like the ships with a OpenWRT based firmware already.
According to, the N600 should handle around 500Mb/s throughput between the WAN and LAN ports. Therefore, the CPU is strong enough to get your full 170Mb/s.
Before moving onto the nitty-gritty methods of fixing your Mac’s Wi-Fi woes, there’s something simple you can try that might just solve everything. Quite a lot of Mac users have reported that disconnecting certain USB 3 and USB-C devices has solved their problems. So the first thing to try is disconnect your USB devices one by one and see if the Wi-Fi comes back. Why does this happen? Certain USB devices emit wireless signals that can interfere with the Wi-Fi, while devices like USB hubs have been known to outright disable the Wi-Fi port (sort of like how plugging in an ethernet cable automatically disables Wi-Fi). So unplug all your devices, then observe whether your Wi-Fi returns after removing a particular one. Reset the NVRAM/PRAM and SMC I first started having connection issues while running macOS Sierra’s public beta.
Of course, start by restarting your Mac to see if this resolves the issues. Otherwise, try to reset the PRAM (Parameter Random-Access-Memory) / NVRAM (Non-Volatile Random-Access-Memory) and the SMC (System Management Controller). These are the portions of your Mac that control basic operations critical for basic system function.
PRAM/NVRAM 1. Press and hold the power button on your Mac to completely shut it off. Hard discs and fans need to stop spinning, and the screen needs to go dark. Power on your Mac.
Immediately after you hear the startup sound, press and hold the Command + Option + P + R keys. Keep holding them down until you hear the start up sound again and see the Apple logo.
Release the keys, and the PRAM/NVRAM will have been reset. SMC This process will vary heavily depending on whether or not your Mac is a desktop or laptop and if it has a removable battery or not. Quite heavily. The following attempts at getting back online will all require you to begin with your Mac’s “Network Settings.” To get there: 1. Click on “System Preferences” from the dock, or click it from the top-left Apple logo’s drop-down menu.
Click “Network” from the newly-opened window. Reconfigure the DNS DNS stands for Domain Name Server, which essentially changes web addresses that we are able to read (e.g. Www.google.com) to IP addresses that the server can understand. This acts as a “phone book” of sorts for the Internet. Sometimes your service provider’s given DNS will not work properly, in which case we can use safe and free publicly available DNS options like Google’s. Click “Advanced.” 2.
Select “DNS” from the network settings. Click the “+” icon. Type 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4 into the box and press Enter (these are Google’s DNS options). Click “Okay.” Now try to surf the Web. Adjust Packet Size Are some pages loading just fine and others failing completely? This could have to do with the amount of packets that are able to be transmitted. In layman’s terms, this is the amount of data able to be transmitted over the network.
We can adjust the value so that certain sites are able to load. Click “Advanced.” 2.
Start by selecting “Hardware” in network settings. Change the “Configure” setting from “Automatic” to “Manually.” 4. Change MTU from “Standard (1500)” to “Custom.” 5. Add the value “1453” into the box and press Enter.
Click “Okay.” Try surfing the Web a bit to see if this was able to solve the issue. Change Location and Renew DHCP Lease Sometimes the automatic location determined by your Mac will not get settings 100% correct, in which case we can set up a custom location and settings that go along with it.
This is where we can also renew a DHCP lease and IP address. DHCP is a protocol for arranging IP addresses, and changing that can make sure traffic is being directed accordingly. Now after all of that tech jargon, here is how to do it. Again in network settings, click “Edit locations” from the drop-down menu where “Automatic” is currently selected. Click the “+” icon and name this new “location.” You can name it literally anything you would like; the name itself does not affect anything. Press Enter and click “Done.” You will now notice that “no IP address” appears under WiFi on the left menu bar.
Click “Advanced,” then “TCP/IP” from the menu bar. Click “Renew DHCP Lease.” A new IP address will be assigned. I tried doing the steps you suggested and am still unable to get online. I’ve been having this problem for a while now with my computer being unable to connect to the wifi but literally every other device can.
I’ve even been on the phone with apple support about this issue for over 2 hours with no immediate solution. It randomly gets through and connects for maybe a day or two then kicks off again and nothing loads. And in that meantime it says it’s still connected with full bars. Just nothing will load.
Comments are closed.
|
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |